Primus Tupike Stove

I somehow 'misplaced' my Coleman white gas cap stove for car camping.  I have no idea how I did that, unless I leaned it up against a tree at a campsite and forgot to put it in my car.  Nonetheless, it is not to be found in my house.

So, it's an opportunity to upgrade my car camp stove, which I have been wanting to do anyways.  Between the pump not working nicely, the cap leaking, the sive of the thing... etc. etc., it is an opportunity for improvement.  After doing some research, the stove that came to the top of the list was the Primus Tupike Stove.  Newly released this year, it features a compact construction, looks great with stainless steel and oak wood slats to prevent scratching, has an innovative carry handle that is also the lock, windscreen, foot stands to elevate the stove, a removable pan under the burners for easy cleaning, piezo igniters for the burners.  All that and, one of the features that make me most excited - it comes with an adapter and wrench to convert to from using the standard green canister propane tanks to use butane tanks.  Finally, a stove that lets me use up the mostly-consumed tanks from backcountry use with my Jetboil!   But wait-there's more!  It also comes with an accessory griddle made of Teflon coated aluminum with a folding handle and a carry bag for the griddle.  It is quite small but would be useful for camping with yourself or one other person.

This stove does come with a hefty price tag, for a camp stove that is.  I picked mine up from MEC for 230 dollars.  There is a lower cost stove with most of the features called the Kinjia - the differences being no windscreen, piezo igniters, foot stands, and it's all black -no stainless or griddle but costs only 40 dollars less.  I'll gladly take all the extra features for a little more.  This is a compact stove, good for small groups and not a stove for large groups.

I have yet to actually use it, other than testing it in my side yard but it seems like a winner so far. There's only two things I can see improvement - one, the legs are non adjustable to be able to level it on picnic tables.. I'm sure everyone using a camp stove has had the experience of shoving rocks or firewood under the stove to be able to level it and prevent food from sliding to one side of the pan...  and also the wrench and adapter for the butane have no clip or way of storing them on the stove itself.  There is a bag available for this stove from Primus, but it's listed as 147 Euros on their euro site and not on the North American site so it may not be available in North America.

In any case, I'm looking forward to some car/base camping to be able to test it out for reals!

Primus Tupike Stove
Primus Kinjia Stove

Bruce Trail Campsite Map

I took the liberty of turning this list of Bruce Trail campsites PDF:
Bruce Trail Campsite List PDF
 into a Google custom map:
Bruce Trail Campsite Google Map

I listed free and paid campsites separately.

Hopefully it will be of use to some others!

Big Trout Lake Loop

Algonquin Big Trout Lake Loop - September 22-26, 2014

Looking for a late September backcountry trip as I usually do, myself and Pete decided upon a loop kayak trip in Algonquin, starting from Canoe Lake to Big Trout Lake – a well known and traveled route by many.  In fact, the Portage Store’s website shows it as a virtual canoe trip route, and it is in Kevin Callan’s books as well.  Personally, I would never start any trip from Canoe Lake in the peak seasons of July or August, it’s simply way overcrowded and probably is the epicenter of canoeing in Canada, if not the world..  filled with newbies, yahoos, singing Boy Scout troops and other undesirables I precisely want to get away from on a backcountry trip.

We got in late afternoon and decided not to go out that day as we were originally planning, so we went to Canisbay Lake to car camp.  I had never been there before and to my pleasant surprise, it was one of the better campgrounds I had been to in Algonquin – I certainly don’t like Mew Lake or Kearney Lake, they are way too crowded, Lake of Two Rivers is pretty, but crowded as well.  Canisbay has many privater-than-average sites, and is on a nice lake that even has paddle-across-the-lake semi backcountry sites.  We arrived with the power out to the campground from the huge rains earlier in the day, drove around to look at some of the vacant sites and picked one.  We had to deal with some typically shitty Ontario Parks firewood for our camp fire that night.

Day 1

Luck was on our side with the weather for this trip, although it didn’t appear so at the beginning of Monday when we got to Canoe Lake to start off, after having eaten a not so great, but good energy breakfast at the Lake of Two Rivers Cafe.  The weather was overcast, coldish with a high of 10, windy and spitting rain.  The leaf change was well underway, but not at their peak quite yet.  The good thing about that was that there was no one else leaving for the backcountry from Canoe Lake.  We packed up the canoe and headed out on Canoe Lake, our destination Burnt Island Lake for the evening.   We passed the Tom Thompson cairn on Canoe Lake and made our way to the 295m portage between Canoe and Joe Lake.  This portage looks like a highway with a big wide portage trail, complete with a composting toilet rest stop midway through the portage.  Continuing on to Joe Lake, we passed a few campers on their site, otherwise it was pretty quiet on the lakes.  The water was higher than normal on most f the lakes due to the rain from the day before which was good for several reasons.  The route took us to a meandering stream that, because of the high water, bypassed one of the portages since we glided right over several beaver dams.  We ate lunch at the beginning of the 730m portage and a quick paddle to another 200m portage before we were on Burnt Island Lake.

Burnt Island Lake is quite Large and beautiful, fortunately the wind was on our side for a change and we had a tailwind, as the sun began to dip down on the horizon.  We paddled about 2/3 across the lake and decided to look for a campsite.  Just around this time the wind started to pick up quite a bit.  The first campsite we went to check out had a good camp layout, however the wind was becoming quite the beast and this site was exposed, unfortunately, the wind was coming the same direction as the sun, so we were reluctant to go for a site in the shade to shelter from the wind - it was only 10 degrees after all.

We paddled down one arm of the lake to the last campsite on that arm and pulled up to it.  The trees were growing out of the water and it was a bit difficult landing since the water was about 5 feet higher than normal, judging from the shoreline.  Fortunately this site had a hill shading us from the wind but not the sun.  We set up camp, then broke out Pete’s breakdown bucksaw and his new Woodsman’s Pal, a machete-like implement, great for limbing small to medium sized branches and went to hunt for firewood.  The wood was plentiful from a downed tree up on a ridge behind the camp and the saw and pal made short work of them.  We drank plenty of wine/beer that night around a roaring campfire.  The skies cleared for a bit as we listened to the loon calls, alas, we were to find out the clear skies would not last - luckily the calming wind would.

 

Day 2

Destination for this day was Big Trout Lake.   We got a bit of a late start this day – woke up with some on and off light rain that would not relent, and still a bit chilly from the night before but not too bad.  We slowly packed up and hit the water, making our way to the 790m portage between Burnt Island and Little Otterslide Lakes.  We set off on the portage after fuelling with some chocolate.  After paddling the Otterslide lakes a series of shorter portages then the last 730m portage, we finally made it to Big Tout Lake, and there was still some decent time left in the day.  The skies were heavily overcast but that was fine, there was not much wind thankfully, as this is quite a big lake.  We decided to pick an Island campsite, both because there was apparently a nuisance bear in the area according to the park staff before we took off, and an island site also could provide us with both sunset and sunrise views.

The only site we checked out is the one we picked.  It had a cool looking grass campsite, with a good bench around a nice firepit on a point – sold!  There was a large deadfall pine tree very close to the camp, we were surprised no one had harvested it earlier.  We cut the larger limbs off and processed a huge pile of wood for the fire.  It was still moist and damp so a fire would be good that evening we thought as we set up our still soaked tents and dampish sleeping bags.

The sky cleared that night and I got a couple night shots, but a fog started rolling in shortly after before going to bed.

Day 3

I woke up surrounded by white dampness…  the fog which looked pretty cool.  But I think this was the turning point for the weather – it was all good from here on out.  The fog burned out, gradually revealing the colors of the nearby islands and the sun warmed and gloriously dried everything that were spread over the rocks, before packing up and pushing off.  It was a brilliant day weather wise.  Another lateish, past 11am start due to drying our gear out.  The plan for the day was to get to McIntosh Lake, but do a day hike behind the ranger cabin on Trout Lake to a former collapsed fire tower on the ridge, according to Jeff’s Maps.

We paddled across Trout Lake on a summery day - past the high cliffs between Trout and Big Trout and made our way to the ranger cabin on the other side of the lake.  After pulling up the boat at the ranger cabin, we quickly ate some snacks and started off to look for the trail.  The trail starts off passing the outhouse behind the ranger cabin and quickly becomes overgrown, covered with deadfall and unfollowable after a couple hundred meters.  Despite that, the forest under the canopy is relatively open so I used my GPS to do some bushwhacking…  my only regret was that I was only wearing shorts not pants since I wasn’t expecting this activity, o my shins got scraped up good in the bush.  After about an hour or so tromping around in the bush, we made our way to a ridge where we heard a moose maybe 30 meters from us.  We wanted to get to the tower but from my GPS, it still was another kilometer away and it was starting to get a little late. We had a bunch of paddling to do to get to the planned destination for the evening so we turned back and headed back to the boat.

Off through McIntosh Marsh we went, and a marsh it is – a huge wetland with cool scenery  We picked our way through the channels, around the floating peat islands through the marsh.  We did stop at one campsite-one of two campsites in all of McIntosh marsh - and debated for a short period of time whether to camp there, or continue another 6 km of paddling along with a 745m and a 510m portage to McIntosh lake since it was now about 4 o’clock and darkness starts to set in around 6:30 or 7 this time of year.  We decided to push on.  Up McIntosh creek we continued with the meandering until we reached a substantial beaver dam in the way.  I was glad that it was just high enough to still be able to drag the loaded canoe + peter over it and continue on our way without much issue.

On to the 745m and 510m portages which were quite scenic and I enjoyed the view, despite being loaded up with a canoe and 100lbs of gear.

We reached McIntosh Lake with the sun getting low on the horizon, but still some time in the day.  Deliberating what site would be a good one by the map, we decided upon an island site, once again for the bear protection and a good view of the sunrise and sunset.  We got to the site and quickly assessed it for quality of tent spots, firepit, bear hang, and firewood.  The firewood was a little scarce, but I found a couple medium sized deadfall trees on the far end of the island – a bit of a hike, but some good wood, so we decided on this site.  The other alternative would be to check out another site, but that would waste another half hour of precious daylight.  In the end, I was super glad we took this site, as I got some phenomenal night shots from this site.

We collected wood first, since it was getting late, then set up camp and ate.  It was good timing, and we enjoyed yet another decent fire, and took photos of the night landscape.  The sky was crystal clear, the lake glassy, with the faint glow of Huntsville on the horizon and a full on view of the Milky Way.  There was no moon in sight to ruin the view of the stars which I was thankful for-I prefer a no moon full on starry sky to a sky dominated by the moon at night.

Day 4

Another brilliant sunny day to wake up to – prefect sleeping temperature and only slightly breezy.  This past night I slept without the fly on the tent and it was marvelous, gazing at the stars shining through the canopy of enormous White Pine trees.  I awoke just at sunrise and I rushed out of the tent to grab some good sunrise shots.  Unfortunately I wasted a bunch of time with the first bunch of photos, since my camera was still set up for night shooting and I forgot to put the settings back. 

I then made coffee and went for a shot solo paddle on the glassy water.  My Swift Kipawa is quite unstable and tippy but fun while soloing, especially when sitting in the rear seat.  Kneeling midway offers more stability, but the posture and the paddling are not quite as enjoyable.  I did manage to check out a swampy area and loop back to the campsite, with a loon resurfacing right next to my boat, more startling the loon than myself.

 Another dry out session in the brilliant sun, packing up and hitting the water again – this time we knew there was not much traveling,  just a long 2300m portage and that’s almost it to Tom Thompson Lake.  We paddled to one arm of Macintosh Lake and a serene but beautiful creek leading to Ink Lake.  The creek’s water was clear but very dark, my paddle disappearing into the murky depths.  Apparently Ink Lake refers to this.  The meandering creek was beautiful, lined with tamaracks in a bog-like setting of low bushes, moss and some pitcher plants.  Breaking out into Ink Lake we saw an amazing scene, with the mirror like Ink Lake reflecting off of the perfect little fluffy clouds (aka The Simpsons clouds) as we made our way across the lake to the long portage takeout.

The takeout is a little amusing - being so far away from everything, yet, there is this nicely constructed staircase made out of pressure treated 6 X 6 timber making it’s way up the slope from the water.  Sure, it helps with erosion and makes it easier to climb or descend, but it just is out of place; I’d rather keep it natural looking.  The portage is straightforward, a little muddy in places, a little rocky in places but not bad.  We came across a guy going the way we were, with a cedar strip canoe.  Only, instead of doing a single carry, he was doing a triple carry…  meaning he had to walk 7.9 kms instead of 2.3 km.  That cedar strip aint worth that, bro.

We arrived at McIntosh and the dude that had the cedar strip was just finishing up his portage and we chatted a bit.  We set off on Tom Thompson Lake and looked for a site.  This place was packed and many sites were taken.  I personally am not very accustomed to backcountry camping with many others around.  The reason this place has so many people is there is only one short portage, in fact the same first portage as we took on day 1, that separates Canoe Lake from this area..  and a couple hour paddle as well.  

 In any case we managed to get a site on a point.  A very large site in fact.  We looked around for some firewood..  not much to be found in an easily accessible campsite like this – just some green maple and green pine branches some douchebags cut down.  I did find a punky old dead pine tree standing up in close vicinity as well.  Exploring the woods behind this site and the campsite next to it, there was a ton of moose poo everywhere, some bear poo, and some unknown..  maybe coyote poo was well…  poo central!  I was hoping to see a moose (not a bear) with all of this fresh stuff around, but I never did see any creatures, other than humans…  and the busy beaver in the lake that decided to waddle up next to the campfire, rustle some bushes and have a late night snack, munching away right beside my canoe.  I went up to it to take a photo and it was not intimidated at all…   just sat there while I shone my headlamp on it while taking a photo.

Day 5

It was a Friday and time to head out today.  We took our time getting our gear together, it was another brilliant day.  Only a couple hour paddle and no portages back to Canoe Lake.  On the way out it was apparent that the leaves had changed significantly since we started the trip.  We enjoyed the sun, warm breeze and relished at the amazing fall colors as we leisurely paddled.  On our way out, there was armadas of canoeists heading into the backcountry since it was the weekend..  we were glad we were headed in the opposite direction. We got to Canoe Lake after the same 295m portage that we first entered the backcountry area. I wanted to check out the om Thompson cairn and totem since we were in the area and quickly stopped to check it out on the way back to the landing.  We got back mid afternoon.  Since it was so amazing out we eventually went to Canisbay to car camp and have a day hike the day after, but not before having a giant Hungry Bear burger, poutine and a bottle of Muskoka Brewery’s Mad Tom IPA at the Portage Store Restaurant…  amazing how your first meal back tastes after a great adventure!

Winter Camping

 

     Some call winter the undiscovered season, because to most people the thought of being outdoors and camping in the snow is an automatic dismissal.  To be honest, most people think you are nuts if you go winter camping. Only a miniscule percentage of people who camp in the summer actually winter camp, but it actually is quite beautiful, serene and a unique experience to be had.    The beauty of the landscape and the challenge itself is a worthwhile.  The babbling brooks in the snowy gullies,  frozen waterfalls and lakes and the white blanket covering everything on a clear day makes for stunning landscapes and excellent photography.  A scene can look completely different from one season to the next.  It is also an opportunity to get much better views on the tops of ridges and peaks because there are no leaves on the trees and the serenity that gently falling snow in the woods creates is unmatched.
      With winter comes freedoms that summer doesn't have, but also takes it away others from the warmer seasons.  You suddenly become free to walk across lakes on routes you would require canoes for.  The forest opens up and off track is easier, the snow smoothing out the rougher summer landscape.  You can easily drag a sled full of gear behind you instead of being encumbered by it all on your back.  And, as I also say, the snow tells tales too, which I find fascinating.  The tracks in the snow from animals and people also show what they have been up to.  There are no bugs, no crowds, and for the most part you don't have to worry about your food being eaten (except for by mice and small critters).  Yet another difference is the quiet, which you don't notice at first but then when you relax it's obvious.  There's no leaves rustling in the trees or underfoot, no waves lapping n the shore, and not nearly as many birds or critters chirping or scurrying about, not to mention the freshly fallen snow just absorbs all the sounds so there is dead silence when there's no wind.

     There are some down sides to winter camping though – everything takes at least twice as long to do, and the cold temperatures can make for an experience and challenges of it’s own.  Camping at -5C is one thing but when you get to around -20C it is a strange hostile almost alien environment you are in, although it can be comfortable if you have the right gear.  That is the key, winter is unforgiving and having the right gear and also doing things at the right time when you are far off from civilization is paramount to having a good time.

     My last camping trip in winter to Killarney was unbelievably beautiful and an amazing experience, but the cold was brutal.  Strange things start happening when it’s near -20C.  Many materials and fabrics change properties, sound different and become brittle.  Batteries in electronics and electrical devices stop working if they aren’t heated by your body.  My SLR camera lens broke.  Every piece of clothing gathers moisture and gets hard after taking it off.  My fire starter sparker couldn’t light my white gas stove because there was no vapor from the gas.  Every bit of metal is ridiculously cold and will sap any heat from your hands instantly.  40% whiskey gets thick to the consistency of syrup.  The sky was intensely clear and crisp, the night sky just full of sharp stars and the day sky intensely blue.  I think it can only be this clear in the winter due to lack of vapor in certain condition from the cold. 

     And then there’s the water management.  Water is always freezing.   You have to constantly be melting snow for water and hydrating to stay warm, drinking hot beverages.  I have a double walled steel mug I brought camping so my drinks would stay warmer.  Even though there was hot liquid in the mug itself, it was at the bottom of the mug and it was so cold the lip was still frozen for my lips to get stuck to it.  You just have to shift your thinking because things aren’t the way you are used to them being.

    Another concept you have to understand when winter camping is snow sintering.  This happens when you move snow around.  The layers between flakes or granules on snow refreeze in a short period and the snow becomes hard like styrofoam.  This process is useful when crating a tent pad.  If you stomp down a square pattern of powdery snow for a tent pad with your snowshoes, it is still somewhat soft when you finish, but walk away and come back in half an hour and it will be hard enough to pitch a tent on.  The same principle works when building a quinzee (easy to build igloo) - you pile snow up, wait for it to sinter and dig out the inside.  Same with tent pegs - you push the pegs into the snow and wait a few minutes for the show to harden.
     In any case, winter camping brings it's own rewards, challenges and beautiful scenery.  If you have never been before, it's likely not as bad as you think it is, I challenge you to get out there and try it, you might just like it.